On our two previous trips to Japan, we ran out of time to actually get out to Lake Kawaguchiko and/or Hakone for even a day trip so when planning this time, it was a priority.

S had been desperate on both our last visits to go to Fuji-Q Highland theme park, Japan's most famous amusement park at the foot of Mount Fuji. When we found out it had a connecting Thomasland - Thomas the Tank engine theme park - it was a no brainer to head to Lake Kawaguchiko for at least an overnight.

Further research showed up that Lake Kawaguchiko celebrated Koyo, the autumn leaves festival, with nightly illuminations and markets so we decided to plan 2 nights, 2.5 days in the area.

For accommodation, we wanted something comfortable with easy access from the Highway Bus that was close to Fuji Q and local amenities. We chose Highland Resort Hotel & Spa which was a bit of a splurge but offered plenty of extras like direct early theme park admission, free access to the Fujiyama onsen and was one of the highway Bus stations.

View from our hall

We stayed in a family suite that was well appointed with separate bedroom and lounge area with televisiosn in each room - perfect for naptime and bedtime so we could still sit up and have a nightcap and watch local tv without disturbing the boys. It was on the fifth floor looked straight out to Mount Fuji and thanks to clear weather, we were greeted with the most spectacular scenery every morning, all day and afternoon.

The staff at the hotel were very helpful although spoke minimal english. It was a little hard to book through there website so I ended us phoning the hotel in Japan from Australia and arranging to send an email with our booking request and details. 

We didn't eat at the hotel, instead buying snacks and drinks from the Don Quixote supermarket across the road, eating at a delicious Japanese restaurant up the street a short walk and McDonalds for the boys just a little bit further up from the Japanese restaurant.

We pre-booked our Highway Bus tickets from Shinjuku leaving mid-morning. The trip was around 1.5 hours and C slept the whole way thankfully. We were able to bring snacks and meals onboard also so pack lunch and drinks. It was a nice drive with some beautiful scenery once clear of Tokyo, especially with the changing leaves. 

We arrived before check in at the hotel so dropped off our bags and caught a taxi to Sylvans Microbrewery and Restaurant. The restaurant had finished its official lunch serving but happily accommodated us at a table in the back glassed room looking out on the gardens. We ordered the best hot chips I've ever had and each tried a different specialty beer. I really enjoyed the Weizen fruity beer. We didn't have much time here as we had a booking for the afternoon but had we had longer, the boys would have enjoyed running in the gardens and even checking out Fuji Subaru land, a small theme play park where you can rent or take dogs.



After our snack and beers, we ordered a taxi via the front desk to take us to Ide Sake Brewery, a 300 year old family owned operation I stumbled across on Trip Advisor. We made the booking via email which was quick and simple and I cannot recommend this experience highly enough, even with children. It was just  so is excellent value as you get to sample 3 sakes and are provided a souvenir glass and Fuji postcards along with the tour. You are also invited to view the owner's home (outer) and beautiful 300+year old gardens which the boys loved and the owner encouraged them to explore.
A MUST DO!
Definitely get a taxi there and have the Japanese address to show the driver.



Once we finished at Ide Sake, we asked the owner to order us a taxi and set off back to the hotel. Once back at the hotel, we showered, rugged up for the cold and took a walk down the main street outside the hotel for something to eat. We dined at a beautiful Japanese restaurant not far from the hotel by foot with traditional seating and small private dining rooms. Beautiful food and reasonably priced. The boys at McDonalds just a little further up and enjoyed a play with local children on the indoor playground. After everyone was fed, we spent at least an hour browsing in Don Quixote and stocked up on drinks for us to try and treats/snacks for the boys.

We planned for the theme parks on our full day there and as Fuji Q Highlands is famous for rollercoasters, the plan was for me to take the boys to Thomasland for the morning while S got his fix. Of course nothing goes to plan and I was up from 4am vomiting and feeling like death. I was still determined to persevere with our day's plan though and we set off to the hotel's private entrance with our passes to the park via La Ville de Gaspard et Lisa, a super cute themed village with cafes, a carousel and small shops. 



Unfortunately the day was freezing and drizzly and the park was almost deserted which I expect was due to most of the rides being closed until the weather improved for safety reasons. I took the boys into Thomasland and they were so excited to look around. I wasn't feeling any better so we went and browsed the Thomas shop for a while which was warm and dry and I was able to sit for a bit and the boys could play with displays set up for that purpose. Once I felt up to it, we headed out into the park and went on a few rides, all very small tame Thomas rides but the boys loved them.  
I started feeling even worse if at all possible by now so we set off for the main park to find S. Thankfully we found him fairly quickly and I had him watch the boys as I was still vomiting but had nothing left to bring up (gross & TMI sorry). He took the boys on a few more Thomas rides while I sat in the cold trying to feel better. Once the boys had their fill I took them back up to the hotel for rest/naps and as the coasters were starting to open, S planned to spend the afternoon riding them. 
He met us back at the hotel late afternoon where thankfully I felt a little less deathly after a good nap thanks to C falling asleep for 3 hours and E being a total saint and sitting next to me on the bed watching TV quietly.



We had planned to visit Fujiyama onsen for the afternoon as it was also connected to the hotel via a long corridor. Best part for mums of boys? Its segregated bathing and while mums can still take young boys, I convinced S it was better/appropriate they go with him.
We had experienced traditional Japanese bathing before but I was still a little intimidated getting naked with strangers in a foreign country so I booked a full body 60 minute massage first and honestly, it was amazing. Firm but relaxing enough to send me almost off to sleep, it definitely helped me to feel better and ready to relax and bathe.
The female bathing offered indoor and outdoor bathing and it was beautiful to sit in the hot baths outside in the freezing cold watching the sky get dark. I spent about 90 minutes bathing before showering with all the provided amenities and met the boys back at the room so we could get a taxi to Lake Kawaguchiko and the autumn illuminations.

We arrived on dark and walked through the illuminations which were so beautiful. It was busy with tourists and locals alike, all stopping to take the best photo. Unfortunately due to the drizzly weather, by the time we had walked through the illuminations, the food stalls and markets had started to close up. We found a small area with an open fire, a makeshift bar and food stand so sat for a drink and S sampled some local food.
Once finished, we bought some fruit from a local growers stand for the boys (the biggest and absolute best pears we have ever had) and set about trying to find some transport back to the hotel amongst the rapidly disappearing crowds. We ended up walking 100m to a small bed and breakfast and asked the manager/owner if he could phone us a taxi. As is typical with Japanese hospitality, we received a warm welcome, an invitation in to sit and enjoy a refreshment. He even pulled some toys out for the boys while we waited.
Once the taxi came, we headed back to the hotel and bed after a very full day.


With the Highway Bus booked for 1pm, we wanted to make the most of our last day so caught a taxi early to downtown Lake Kawaguchiko and the Mount Kachi Kachi ropeway. Lucky we did as we were there 30 mins before opening and the line was already at a 30 minute wait with the line behind us rapidly filling - by the time we had been up and down, the line was easily a 90+ minute wait.
I actually managed to get in a bit of trouble while lining up... there was an amazing display of strawberries and bananas and pears and the boys hadn't had as much fresh fruit as they were used to since we arrived so I grabbed a punnet of strawbs, some bananas and pears to buy, handed over the money requested and got back to S and our place in line. S asked how much it had cost and when I told him, it registered to us both I had just spent about $70 on 4 bananas, a punnet of strawberries and 3 pears. I was so embarrassed but S took them back to the grower and requested a refund due to my conversion ignorance. Luckily the grower was very kind and accommodating.

Moving on, we bought the joint ropeway romance boat ticket.
We were crammed into the little gondolier like sardines - try to get to the sides of the car to at least see the view as in the middle, you won't see anything.
It was a quick ride to the top and once up there, you can see why its so popular. A magnificent 360deg view that takes in Mount Fuji and the Lake. We were lucky to have a crystal clear day so got to see the area at its very best.
There is a shrine to bunnies, a small refreshment and souvenir shops, restrooms and vending machines all available at the top. There is also a walk/hike you can do but with the boys and our limited time, we didn't do this.
We spent about 60-90 mins at the top looking around and having a snack before heading back down the mountain and over to the lake for our romance boat ride.
The departure point was opposite the ropeway entrance and maybe 150m to the left. We were lucky that there was a boat just leaving so jumped on that.
There was good seating and a mix of indoor and outdoor points so we sat outside the boys and enjoyed a relaxing cruise around the lake with views of Fuji and the Autumn leaves.
I definitely recommend this entire experience, it was beautiful and enjoyable for us all.





Once finished on the boat, we walked down the main street, bought a few souvenirs in the many tourist shops - Fuji apple kitkats anyone? We ate a light lunch from the local Family Mart - cheese chicken nuggets for the boys, fresh sushi for S and a pizza wrap for me all for under $10.

We caught a taxi back to the hotel, pickup up our bags from reception and went to wait at the bus station next door. To the boys absolute delight, the bus back to Shinjuku was the Thomas themed bus!
The trip back was an uneventful one where C slept again (winning) and we enjoyed the scenery all the way back to Shinjuku.


We loved this part of our trip and I would definitely recommend it with or without children. There is so much to do and see, so much we didn't have time for including Ice Caves and shrines. It was a great experience for the boys with a good mix of fun and sightseeing thanks to the theme park and onsen.


Side note: We usually use local transport, buses/metro/trains but we used a lot of taxis during this part of the trip as the area and attractions were quite spread out. It was definitely the most expensive option but the easiest with the boys for us.

After our Tokyo area, Japan family holiday last year, it really woke me up to how much I miss travelling (we I haven't been overseas since E was born in 2012) and what a short time with have with our boys to see other parts of the World through their eyes and make those precious memories.

While there were plenty of exhausting and tricky moments, the experiences we shared and the sights we saw were that much more memorable for having the boys with us. We saw sights we've seen on past trips to Japan that seemed so much different with E & C by our sides exclaiming and pointing ... a simple metro trip had us engaging with Japanese commuters as our boys engaged with their young children - lots of smiles and nodding.
Godzilla over the buildings in Shinjuku was the biggest deal and incited long tales from Ethan about dinosaurs living in Japan hiding among the tall buildings ... magic. The boys also got to make new friends with some of our old Japanese friends and I loved watching them learn from the different customs and mannerisms.

The trip put a few things into perspective for us. We bought a renovator house 2 and a bit years ago that needs a lot of work. We've done a lot of work and continue to, think new bathroom and laundry, painting, landscaping ... but it needs a new kitchen, I hate the tiles and we want a new patio just to name a few items. It all adds up to money and all our spare $$$ go into its improvement.

While we want to continue to tackle the items we can do ourselves or with family like painting and gardening and odd jobs, for the next few years,  we want to save whatever we can not to replace the kitchen etc but to spend on travelling with our boys and making more of these magical memories for our family to share. We won't appreciate a kitchen in 30 years time as much as we will be grateful for these experiences.

We have a Pacific Seas cruise booked for August this year and I am looking forward to the relaxing family break that is cruising. I'm also excited for us to get a very small taste of Island life with the cruise taking in Noumea, Vanuatu and Lifou. We plan on skipping the shore tours and spending some time exploring with the other family we are travelling with as S and I have visited these places previously. A great chance for the boys to get a very small glimpse of the culture and lifestyle that is so different to their own.

Beyond our cruise, I think the boys will be old enough to venture a little further afield (read we are more game to fly with them) and we are in the process of locking down a trip to America in 2019 - June/July or September. My parents would like our whole family to spend a week in Hawaii for my dad's 60th and we figure you can't go to the USA and not visit Disneyland! So the plan is to tack a week on to Hawaii either before or after with my siblings and our families to go to DL. And not just for the children ... S is possibly more excited as Star Wars land/world is scheduled for opening in 2019. I visited DL almost 10 years ago, its still one of my favourite trips ever and I can't wait to share the Disney magic with my little and greater family.

We are also busy planning another trip back to Japan - our fourth, the boys second. Its just too amazing a destination not to visit over and over with so much to see and do each time. We have been 3 times and there is still so much we haven't even done yet and the beauty of the people and the scenery just keeps calling us back. Plus Jetstar offers such good flights and deals that its a cheaper holiday than going most places in Australia.
We would love to visit in Nov 2018 although it may be a little close finance wise to our USA trip so I am looking at April 2020 too - just before the Olympics.
As the boys will be a little older, we want to take them South this time down to Osaka and take in the historic areas of Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima and Fukuoka - a seaside town I only recently discovered but am committed to visiting as its one of the most stunning places I've ever seen in print.

We also want to do some short visits to Sydney and Melbourne and probably another 7 day cruise somewhere in the next three to four years ... ambitious and expensive but pushing our renovations back for these experiences will be well worth it in the long run and we can't wait to get adventuring with our boys.

Any great family friendly places we should get on our 5 year plan list?

Finally catching up on my posts from last November that I started writing but never finished or published.

These are a few of the items we traveled with to Japan that I couldn't live without.

1. The boys had a full luggage allowance but given they weren't going to be lugging around their own luggage, it seemed crazy to take 4 suitcases, 4 carryons and the pram in its wheel bag to Japan.
Instead, we borrowed these amazing huge duffle bags from my sister that she got in the US. They are on wheels and zip down into a small flat square that fit in our suitcases.
We always planned to use them coming home - plan was to stuff all excess luggage and shopping in the pram wheel bag then at the airport, put it into these bags and the pram in its bag at check in so we didn't have more to juggle for long. This worked exactly as I imagined but we also used one of these bags to take our requirements for the 2 nights at Fuji and the 3 nights at Disney so we could avoid big suitcases.
These are just amazing and so convenient.

2. With my total dedication to organisation, packing cubes were a logical choice for our suitcases. E and I shared a suitcase and S and C shared one so to keep things organised, I bought us each a set of packing cubes in a different colour. From there, I went slightly overboard (I do not regret this at all), and packed the boys an entire outfit for each day in a large Ikea ziplock bag including socks and singlets/thermals. I packed 4 extra days worth of outfits for C (so 14 total) and 12 days for E. This was the best timesaver each morning when we were trying to get out the door to start exploring, especially for E as he could just grab a bag and dress himself. It also made packing for our short trips a breeze as I just threw the number of days and a spare in the duffle and was done.
The ziplocks also were a spacesaver as I could squeeze out the air and layer.
I definitely overpacked as we had a laundry in our apartment and also a laundromat at Disneyland but I really didn't know what to expect so better safe than sorry in my opinion.
I only bought cheap cube sets from eBay as I wasn't sure if they would be worth it but having used them, I'll invest in some good qualities ones for our next big OS trip.

3. The cutest ever Kikki K children's travel journal. I fell in love with this as soon as I saw it and bought one for E and another to store for a future family trip. I love the idea of recording their knowledge of where they are travelling to as well as their thoughts and experiences while travelling. Such a great keepsake to look back on when they are older.

4. A Trunki. Before we left, I started to get worried about how we would juggle the boys and all our luggage through the airport and trains/train stations. I had heard of Trunki's so did some research and decided they would be the solution to our problem.The boys absolutely loved riding them around, they were something to play on in the quieter parts of the airport, something to sit on in Customs queues and freed up our hands getting through terminals.
Lightweight, they are able to be carryon luggage and we just clipped them onto our luggage and tugged the boys along with us ... or they tugged them along themselves - meaning we didn't have then complaining about it being too heavy to carry.
As they were carryon, I filled them up with a pair of pjs, the boys' coats, a change of clothes, a book, some small toys and extra snacks to cover us for anything unexpected.

5. I debated about the necessity of a carrier as obviously CB is long out of the Baby Bjorn but everything I knew already and read about Japan with children recommended one. I looked into carriers for toddlers and obviously didn't want to spend a fortune but figured it could be handy to have one so I bought a Manducca. Lightweight and easy to pack, it easily carried the weight of both boys for medium periods of time. I found it alot more comfortable than S did. E loved it and went it a few times comfortably,  C on the other hand didn't like being restricted and only went in it 5 times max - 2 times under extreme protest.

6. I am a total Bugaboo disciple ... I had a Cameleon with E, upgraded to a Donkey when CB came along and with Japan in mind and then booked, downsized to a Bee and comfort board. Best investment ever! I weighed up getting a Yoyo or similar but in the end, couldn't go past the addition of the comfort board for E.
Having a good quality pram over an umbrella stroller meant that CB could comfortably nap (or E on occasion) while we were on the go instead of heading back to the apartment and it came in handy most days for this. The comfort board also meant that we didn't have E getting tired out from walking and from a safety aspect, it was great to have them both contained from getting lost in a crowd.
The Bee has a decent basket which was handy for storing coats, snacks, water bottles etc, is lightweight, a big factor as Tokyo is not pram friendly and S had to carry it up a million flights of stairs, and it also folds in half easily and quickly.

7. Uniqlo puffer jackets. A must for all the family if you're traveling to cold climates. With low temperatures predicted for Fuji and Tokyo while we were there, I worried about keeping the boys warm and not being used to freezing weather, I wasn't sure how they would cope with heavy layers and big coats.
Uniqlo jackets are ultra light, they weigh next to nothing so the don't inhibit movement and you forget you're even wearing one. I got the boys one each and a vest and they lived in them. They found them easy to put on, not bulky, warm but not hot and at night, they wore their vests over their jackets.
Bonus, they're waterproof too.
I got one also,the longer line one and like the boys, lived in it.

And of course, snacks, lots and lots and lots of snacks!

One of our favourite days in Tokyo was our last full day before heading home.

We started out in the morning heading to Yoyogi Park and the Meiji Shrine via metro. I had planned this adventure for a Saturday having read it was the best day to see the young and old who congregate in and around the park, dressed up and at play.

Walking into the Torii gate up to Meiji Shrine was amazing. It was hard to believe inside this thick tranquil forest, we were still standing within the World's busiest most populated city. It was silent and peaceful and even the boys spoke in hushed tones realising this place was special... admittedly though, they loved the open space and did do some running on the gravel.

In a stroke of luck, I hadn't realised when planning, that day, was part of Shichi-Go-San festival , a traditional rite of passage and festival day in Japan for three- and seven-year-old girls and three- and five-year-old boys, held annually on November 15 to celebrate the growth and well-being of young children. As it is not a national holiday, it is generally observed on the nearest weekend which was the Saturday we were there so we were lucky enough to see the children being brought to Temple in their beautiful traditional dress for blessings. 

The children were completely adorable, very excited and their costumes stunning. I managed to snap some photos of the outfits but avoided faces as it didn't seem appropriate given the ages and special occasion.

Our boys loved watching the Japanese children and thought the girls looked 'so pretty'. Their highlight was completing the bowing and clapping ritual before throwing money into the Emperor's Shrine and they helped me write down our family wishes.


Just when we were about to leave, as if the experience could get better, a wedding procession came through the grounds and we got to witness (behind a small low fence) the ceremony. E especially was full of curiosity and questions about the clothes and rituals.








I would definitely recommend Yoyogi Park on any day for children, if only for them to have space to burn some energy. I would also say Meiji Shrine is a must and suggest a Saturday so you can get the most of the traditional experience.

We had decided on Harajuku next so took the short walk to Takeshita Dori from the park and shrine. The pram was a bit tricky down Takeshita Dori just because of the volume of people in such a narrow space but we managed without too much fuss - although had to leave the pram outside if we went into any shops.

S had promised to take the boys to an animal cafe before we went home and we quickly came across a combination Cat Owl cafe right on Takeshita Dori. Not being a cat person, I was happy to sit this one out and let S take the boys while I went souvenir shopping. We agreed to meet back at the entrance in 45 minutes so I headed up the street to the huge Daiso to pick up some inexpensive gifts to take home for the boys' friends.
I think the Daiso was 4 or 5 floors and 45 minutes passed quickly ... definitely worth visiting for small souvenirs like rising sun ninja headbands, erasers shaped like sushi, pretty glass Chrsitmas decorations, stickers and stationery, bento box bits & bobs etc.
I met the boys back at the cafe and they were on a huge high having had a great time with the cats. S filled me in that he just had to pay an entry fee for himself and buy the boys each a juice drink. He said the place was very clean and the cats were pretty relaxed and happy to be patted but moved away to their hidey holes or up high when they had had enough.

Random place we stopped for a beer & cheeseburgers in a laneway

Next up was Kiddy Land toy store, a short walk from Takeshita Dori - be warned, to cross the street in the midsection to get to the store, you need to use the pedestrian overpass and there are only stairs. We all enjoyed browsing the toy store, they had great Disney and Star Wars sections and the prices were mid to high range. We bought a few things here for the boys including Toy Story cars and merchandise for C and Star Wars cutlery and Pokemon figures for E. We also bought our nieces some beautiful little Japanese mini dolls and spent a lot of time browsing.

We wanted to see the Shibuya crossing again and I wanted to check out the Disney Store there so as it was late afternoon and starting to get dark , we set off by foot. We walked, it wasn't a long journey and we wanted C would nap in the pram, but I'd recommend taking the metro otherwise for convenience.


The Disney Store was easy to find with ts themed entrance but be warned, its cramped and very busy with a narrow winding staircase and a ticket booth on the top floor where you can purchase tickets to Disneyland but the line is long and snakes around the floor.
I honestly found the Disney Store really disappointing as I was looking for Princess items for my nieces (dress-ups and dolls) and costumes and toys for the boys but there were no costumes at all, only a few dolls - Tinkerbell and Alice - and little in the way of toys. There was a whole floor of jewelry though. E and I left with only a handful of things and nothing that was actually on my list (or his).
We also managed to catch the busy rush of the Shibuya Crossing at dusk and it was crazy chaos but honestly, E wasn't at all interested so its not something I'd bother specifically seeing kids unless you're in the area for other sites..

Our last day in Tokyo before flying out in the evening, we set off from Shinjuku to Ikeburo and the Sunshine City mall, specifically to visit the Pokemon Store and the rooftop aquarium.
Ikeburo was bustling with crowds and was a maze underground of metro and trains ... super easy to get lost. We actually couldn't pinpoint the mall as it is set back from the main area and looks like an office building from the outside. We ended up running out of time after spending too long looking for it so had to give the aquarium a miss. We did stop in at the Pokemon store and E spent ages with the crowds looking at stuffed Pokemon toys. I would recommend coming back here but allow yourself more than a few hours so you can see the aquarium and other attractions.

There is so much I haven't included now that I read back so if you have any questions on places to visit with children in Tokyo, please leave a comment ... I love Japan and love to share our amazing experiences there with anyone and everyone - Everyone has to visit Japan!

I'm a researcher and a planner... it makes me feel comfortable and safe ha.

I spent hours - and hours and days and weeks - on researching and planning our trip to Japan in November. So much so I even had a display folder crammed with itineraries, directions, shortlists of food and restaurants for every occasion - teppanyaki, tempura, sushi, korean bbq, burgers and everything in between - and of course, the best things to do and see with children.
S laughed at the folder but he found it pretty handy while we were there - so who had the last laugh ;)

So to recap, we arrived in Tokyo on a Thursday night, traveled by highway bus to Fuji-kyu and Lake Kawaguchiko for two nights, back to Shinjuku for 1 night then Tokyo Disneyland for 3 nights before back to Shinjuku for our last 3 nights.

While in Tokyo, I wanted to keep the travel minimal for the boys' sake so unlike last time when it was just S and I and we flitted from place to place via metro, unconcerned about times and the number of trains, I actually grouped attractions together and planned our days around neighbouring suburbs. This worked for the most part and the efficiency of the Tokyo rail network was a Godsend.

Our first day in Tokyo was only a few hours in the morning before we headed to Fuji-kyu so we made the most of our apartment surroundings and took a short walk to the Tokyo Metropolitan Building observation deck. S and I had visited it previously so knew it to be a good observation deck to show our friend who was traveling with us - his first time in Japan. We also thought it would be fun for the boys to see the City sprawled out before them.
Entry is free and we were there just before the 9:30am opening on a Friday morning and managed to be first in line. The queue quickly grew at 9:30am and there was a fair wait when we left.
Having visited at dusk previously, it was a beautiful crystal clear sight first thing in the morning and we even spied Mount Fuji afar. The boys enjoyed seeing the tall building all around and E (age 4.5) particularly enjoyed us pointing out landmarks and funny buildings.
We probably spent about 30 minutes here and that was more than enough.
Given it is free, I'd say its a must do with or without children, just try to keep them away from the giftshop/souvenir stand.

After a few days out at the Fuji lakes, we arrived back in Shinjuku on Sunday afternoon, ready to start exploring Tokyo. We spent the afternoon around Shinjuku just taking in the atmosphere and the neon lights before catching the metro to Roppongi.
It was dark early and by the time we got to Roppongi at around 5pm, night had fallen so we walked towards Tokyo Tower to show the boys it all lit up. We didn't want to go up the Tower as we had done so on a previous trip and were planning to visit the Sky Tree the following day.
We grabbed dinner at the very safe TGIFridays as we all felt like burgers and salads after some adventurous eating and the boys were desperate for a milkshake - which proved impossible to get anywhere other than an American eatery.
After dinner, we had a look around at the Winter Illuminations and elaborate Christmas decorations which E really enjoyed - C fell asleep in the pram.

The following day was Monday and our day started with a small earthquake around 6am - E was fascinated and I thankfully kept my cool.
Our local friend we met on our previous travels met us at our apartment to guide us on a day of exploring Sumida, Asakusa and more.
First stop was Sky Tree Town in Sumida and the boys were amazed at how tall the Sky Tree Tower was. We decided S and our friends would go up to the observation deck given wait times, cost and the fact the boys were much more interested in running around the Christmas 'village' set up outside the entrance.



So while we waited, the boys and I played at the entrance which was actually a large rooftop area with gardens and seating, before heading into the shopping complex which featured E's highlight, a dedicated Pokemon store!
It was packed with foreigners frantically grabbing merchandise and filling up carts with stuffed toys and really wasn't that big but the boys happily spent about 45 minutes browsing and exclaiming over the characters.
I then took them over to the Sky Tree lobby and our exploring lead us to an Asahi shop that featured a toy and character section and the boys just loved browsing and exclaiming over everything they saw.
There was plenty to do around the Sky Tree complex if you decide not to take children up to the observation deck or if one of you is going and the other needs to entertain them.
We had planned to take them to the aquarium but we really ran out of time after our browsing.
Note (there is a McDonalds near the Asahi shop if your kids are as fussy as mine).

Once S and our friends came down, we walked over to Asakusa - maybe a 25 minute walk over the bridge. It was a pleasant walk and we passed a great looking playground and park just over the bridge on the Asakusa side that we would have stopped at if C wasn't already asleep in the pram.
We entered at Sensoji Temple and took the boys straight to the incense where its believed you will gain wisdom from wafting the smoke over you - here's hoping.
C was still asleep and the area was teeming with tourists and locals alike (late afternoon) so E went with the big boys up into the Temple while I waited below. He loved the small rituals involved, like the money offering and of course seeing the carved Gods and Buddhas everywhere.
We took a walk around the gardens and shrines and E had fun throwing money in the ponds filled with huge Koi.


We strolled the Nakamise shopping street which was filled with kitschy tourist souvenirs before we found a wonderful tiny little place offering just pan fried gyoza and karage chicken so we sat for awhile feasting on delicious food and drinking beer.


After eating our fill, we headed towards Shin-Nakamise shopping street where our Japanese friend arranged for the boys to enjoy a traditional game played in Summer by local children for a small fee.
It involved using rice paper nets to catch as many goldfish as possible from a small pool with extra points for catching the black fish and put them in your bowl filled with water. The nets broke easily so the idea was to be gentle and delicate and once the game was up, the goldfish were put back in the pond. They played for around 25 minutes and the proprietor was very friendly and helpful (but spoke no English).
The boys absolutely loved this game and still talk about it.

S was desperate to visit Tokyo Dome City so we decided to do that on the way back to Shinjuku despite it being around 5pm and dark.
Not great on a cold wet night, I think this would be fun to take children to during the day with Sega World, amusement park rides and a shopping centre. Easily accessible by metro and with lots of food options and restaurants (Japanese and American).
We didn't go on anything as most of the rides were closed due to the rain but the rollercoaster looked fun.

On Tuesday we were due to set out for three nights at Disneyland - and I was more than a little excited! We had booked 3 nights at the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel so I will dedicate a whole post to this part of the trip.

After 3 nights at Tokyo Disneyland, it was time to leave the happiest place on earth and return to reality. We got back to Shinjuku around 10:30am on the Friday morning and set out to look around Shinjuku and find a burger place to eat at. We were determined to find one we had eaten at in a back street on our last visit and after a lot of walking, spotting Godzilla peering at us over a building (much to Es delight) and a walk through the amazing Takayama department store basement foodhall, we finally found it - JS Burgers. A great pitstop with kids as they loved the fries and there was a salad bar included with some cold pasta salads the boys enjoyed.
After eating our fill, we caught the metro to Ginza with a promise to the boys of visiting a big big toy store. We arrived and strolled up the streets taking in the sights of Tokyo's answer to Fifth Ave and Rodeo Drive. There wasn't much chance for browsing with the boys in tow so we pretty much headed straight to Hakuhinkan Toy Park. If you get stuck, head to the Tourist Information and they will give you a map with it clearly marked.
As one of the biggest toy stores in Tokyo, we adults were a little underwhelmed simply because the entrance seemed to be for a discount store and while there were some greats toys, different toys and fun displays on offer, the 5 floors are small and cramped - although well laid out by genre/age.
The boys however were in heaven and I'm sure we spent at least an hour and a half there browsing and playing.
We headed back to Shinjuku late afternoon so S could take E to play in a Sega World - E loved the skill testers and the games - while I took C back to rest, play and shower ahead of dinner.
Our local friend met us around 6pma nd we set off for dinner at a well-known Yakiniku Japanese BBQ he had booked. JoJoen was a  highlight for us all with the grown-ups loving the food (I stuck to the sirloin type pieces while S was more adventurous with tongue and offal) and the boys loving 'helping' us cook the food at the table. It kept them entertained and occupied the entire time.
The restaurant itself was beautiful, high up on the 9th floor with private tables and typical amazing Japanese service. The boys were each bought their own child friendly bowl, cutlery and bib and were made most welcome for dinner.
We went with ordering individual plates of meat and vegetables off the menu as most of the sets included offal which I refused to have.



It is on the higher end price was but entirely worth it - this is definitely on the list for a family or date meal on any future visits.
We finished up our night in Shinjuku on the skill testers where our friend won (paid through the nose) for a Ted for CB - that traveled home with us and now sleeps in CBs cot and is affectionately known as 'Club Elaine' which is CBs pronunciation of 'Clubber Lang' (as per the Ted movie).

I'll continue with part 2 in another post...

... well, barely.

The flight there was the worst I'd say. We departed at 10:30am and landed after 8-9 hours in Narita just outside Tokyo at 6:30pm with a one hour time difference.

We got to the airport early (I would always do this with children so you have plenty of time for any surprises) and spent lots of time walking around exploring, watching the planes land and take off etc.

They both slept well thankfully and E was fine by morning much to our relief.


The flight home was an overnight one, leaving at 8:30pm and arriving home at 6:30am.
This is the one that had me worrying the most because the good thing about day flights is that people don't NEED to sleep apart from to kill time so if your children do act up, its really not the end of the world. A screaming toddler at 3am on the other hand is hideous for everyone.

We set off for the airport early and lucky we did as check in and immigration/screening took forever ... we had just 30 minutes before our plane boarded by the time we got to the gate.
At the gate, we changed the boys into pjs (Bonds zippies are ideal for travelling) and encouraged the boys to run around and pretend to be different animals, do little jump skip hop obstacle courses etc - anything to tire them out.

Again, we waited to board last and I highly recommend this if you are flying with kids - minimise your time on that plane!

Once seated, things looked grim for the flight ahead with CB ... he was overtired and not happy to  be on the plane. He spent the first 90 minutes carrying on and pushing boundaries while E watched a movie. Then suddenly, he took himself to the floor, grabbed his bunny and blankie, and WENT TO SLEEP! I couldn't believe it. E was out too and while I tried to rest, even managing a few fitful hours, every time one of them moved, I stopped breathing, terrified they would wake.
I finally relaxed when there was an hour and a half till landing - I realised we were going to make it unscathed without everyone on the flight hating us.
As it was, the boys slept right up until we were making the descent, so 45 minutes before landing. I seriously couldn't believe how lucky I was, a dream come true.
The flight home was a breeze, especially compared to the trip there.



What worked from my carry-on
If you've been following along, I packed a pretty extensive carry-on and there were a few things that worked really well with the boys.

• triangular crayons (they don't roll off the table) and small colouring books
• snacks, lots and lots of snacks ... try to go easy on the sugary ones but the biggest hits were Shapes biscuits, mini Oreos, pre-cooked Barilla tortellini, blueberries/grapes/strawbs/mandarin segments, le snacs, fruit cereal bars, yoghurt squeezies (frozen prior) and lollipops for take-off and landing
• mini Star Wars micro machine playset - kept E busy for hours
• Blind bags - Thomas mini's, The Good Dinosaur, Mash-Ems ... I had a few of these and they definitely entertained 
• Blankie & bunny - both boys used these as comforters 
• Large ziplock bags and  2 packs of wipes - story above, enough said
• Ipads, wireless hardrive and kids headphones - we loaded the hardrive up with the boys shows and movies plus a few they haven't seen 
• plasticine - CB loved this stuff and spent a good ten minutes at a time playing with it
• The fruit pouches - a must! Flying can play with bowel movements and I think these really helped the boys (take a few to have once at your destination also - CB really needed them).