One of our favourite days in Tokyo was our last full day before heading home.

We started out in the morning heading to Yoyogi Park and the Meiji Shrine via metro. I had planned this adventure for a Saturday having read it was the best day to see the young and old who congregate in and around the park, dressed up and at play.

Walking into the Torii gate up to Meiji Shrine was amazing. It was hard to believe inside this thick tranquil forest, we were still standing within the World's busiest most populated city. It was silent and peaceful and even the boys spoke in hushed tones realising this place was special... admittedly though, they loved the open space and did do some running on the gravel.

In a stroke of luck, I hadn't realised when planning, that day, was part of Shichi-Go-San festival , a traditional rite of passage and festival day in Japan for three- and seven-year-old girls and three- and five-year-old boys, held annually on November 15 to celebrate the growth and well-being of young children. As it is not a national holiday, it is generally observed on the nearest weekend which was the Saturday we were there so we were lucky enough to see the children being brought to Temple in their beautiful traditional dress for blessings. 

The children were completely adorable, very excited and their costumes stunning. I managed to snap some photos of the outfits but avoided faces as it didn't seem appropriate given the ages and special occasion.

Our boys loved watching the Japanese children and thought the girls looked 'so pretty'. Their highlight was completing the bowing and clapping ritual before throwing money into the Emperor's Shrine and they helped me write down our family wishes.


Just when we were about to leave, as if the experience could get better, a wedding procession came through the grounds and we got to witness (behind a small low fence) the ceremony. E especially was full of curiosity and questions about the clothes and rituals.








I would definitely recommend Yoyogi Park on any day for children, if only for them to have space to burn some energy. I would also say Meiji Shrine is a must and suggest a Saturday so you can get the most of the traditional experience.

We had decided on Harajuku next so took the short walk to Takeshita Dori from the park and shrine. The pram was a bit tricky down Takeshita Dori just because of the volume of people in such a narrow space but we managed without too much fuss - although had to leave the pram outside if we went into any shops.

S had promised to take the boys to an animal cafe before we went home and we quickly came across a combination Cat Owl cafe right on Takeshita Dori. Not being a cat person, I was happy to sit this one out and let S take the boys while I went souvenir shopping. We agreed to meet back at the entrance in 45 minutes so I headed up the street to the huge Daiso to pick up some inexpensive gifts to take home for the boys' friends.
I think the Daiso was 4 or 5 floors and 45 minutes passed quickly ... definitely worth visiting for small souvenirs like rising sun ninja headbands, erasers shaped like sushi, pretty glass Chrsitmas decorations, stickers and stationery, bento box bits & bobs etc.
I met the boys back at the cafe and they were on a huge high having had a great time with the cats. S filled me in that he just had to pay an entry fee for himself and buy the boys each a juice drink. He said the place was very clean and the cats were pretty relaxed and happy to be patted but moved away to their hidey holes or up high when they had had enough.

Random place we stopped for a beer & cheeseburgers in a laneway

Next up was Kiddy Land toy store, a short walk from Takeshita Dori - be warned, to cross the street in the midsection to get to the store, you need to use the pedestrian overpass and there are only stairs. We all enjoyed browsing the toy store, they had great Disney and Star Wars sections and the prices were mid to high range. We bought a few things here for the boys including Toy Story cars and merchandise for C and Star Wars cutlery and Pokemon figures for E. We also bought our nieces some beautiful little Japanese mini dolls and spent a lot of time browsing.

We wanted to see the Shibuya crossing again and I wanted to check out the Disney Store there so as it was late afternoon and starting to get dark , we set off by foot. We walked, it wasn't a long journey and we wanted C would nap in the pram, but I'd recommend taking the metro otherwise for convenience.


The Disney Store was easy to find with ts themed entrance but be warned, its cramped and very busy with a narrow winding staircase and a ticket booth on the top floor where you can purchase tickets to Disneyland but the line is long and snakes around the floor.
I honestly found the Disney Store really disappointing as I was looking for Princess items for my nieces (dress-ups and dolls) and costumes and toys for the boys but there were no costumes at all, only a few dolls - Tinkerbell and Alice - and little in the way of toys. There was a whole floor of jewelry though. E and I left with only a handful of things and nothing that was actually on my list (or his).
We also managed to catch the busy rush of the Shibuya Crossing at dusk and it was crazy chaos but honestly, E wasn't at all interested so its not something I'd bother specifically seeing kids unless you're in the area for other sites..

Our last day in Tokyo before flying out in the evening, we set off from Shinjuku to Ikeburo and the Sunshine City mall, specifically to visit the Pokemon Store and the rooftop aquarium.
Ikeburo was bustling with crowds and was a maze underground of metro and trains ... super easy to get lost. We actually couldn't pinpoint the mall as it is set back from the main area and looks like an office building from the outside. We ended up running out of time after spending too long looking for it so had to give the aquarium a miss. We did stop in at the Pokemon store and E spent ages with the crowds looking at stuffed Pokemon toys. I would recommend coming back here but allow yourself more than a few hours so you can see the aquarium and other attractions.

There is so much I haven't included now that I read back so if you have any questions on places to visit with children in Tokyo, please leave a comment ... I love Japan and love to share our amazing experiences there with anyone and everyone - Everyone has to visit Japan!

I'm a researcher and a planner... it makes me feel comfortable and safe ha.

I spent hours - and hours and days and weeks - on researching and planning our trip to Japan in November. So much so I even had a display folder crammed with itineraries, directions, shortlists of food and restaurants for every occasion - teppanyaki, tempura, sushi, korean bbq, burgers and everything in between - and of course, the best things to do and see with children.
S laughed at the folder but he found it pretty handy while we were there - so who had the last laugh ;)

So to recap, we arrived in Tokyo on a Thursday night, traveled by highway bus to Fuji-kyu and Lake Kawaguchiko for two nights, back to Shinjuku for 1 night then Tokyo Disneyland for 3 nights before back to Shinjuku for our last 3 nights.

While in Tokyo, I wanted to keep the travel minimal for the boys' sake so unlike last time when it was just S and I and we flitted from place to place via metro, unconcerned about times and the number of trains, I actually grouped attractions together and planned our days around neighbouring suburbs. This worked for the most part and the efficiency of the Tokyo rail network was a Godsend.

Our first day in Tokyo was only a few hours in the morning before we headed to Fuji-kyu so we made the most of our apartment surroundings and took a short walk to the Tokyo Metropolitan Building observation deck. S and I had visited it previously so knew it to be a good observation deck to show our friend who was traveling with us - his first time in Japan. We also thought it would be fun for the boys to see the City sprawled out before them.
Entry is free and we were there just before the 9:30am opening on a Friday morning and managed to be first in line. The queue quickly grew at 9:30am and there was a fair wait when we left.
Having visited at dusk previously, it was a beautiful crystal clear sight first thing in the morning and we even spied Mount Fuji afar. The boys enjoyed seeing the tall building all around and E (age 4.5) particularly enjoyed us pointing out landmarks and funny buildings.
We probably spent about 30 minutes here and that was more than enough.
Given it is free, I'd say its a must do with or without children, just try to keep them away from the giftshop/souvenir stand.

After a few days out at the Fuji lakes, we arrived back in Shinjuku on Sunday afternoon, ready to start exploring Tokyo. We spent the afternoon around Shinjuku just taking in the atmosphere and the neon lights before catching the metro to Roppongi.
It was dark early and by the time we got to Roppongi at around 5pm, night had fallen so we walked towards Tokyo Tower to show the boys it all lit up. We didn't want to go up the Tower as we had done so on a previous trip and were planning to visit the Sky Tree the following day.
We grabbed dinner at the very safe TGIFridays as we all felt like burgers and salads after some adventurous eating and the boys were desperate for a milkshake - which proved impossible to get anywhere other than an American eatery.
After dinner, we had a look around at the Winter Illuminations and elaborate Christmas decorations which E really enjoyed - C fell asleep in the pram.

The following day was Monday and our day started with a small earthquake around 6am - E was fascinated and I thankfully kept my cool.
Our local friend we met on our previous travels met us at our apartment to guide us on a day of exploring Sumida, Asakusa and more.
First stop was Sky Tree Town in Sumida and the boys were amazed at how tall the Sky Tree Tower was. We decided S and our friends would go up to the observation deck given wait times, cost and the fact the boys were much more interested in running around the Christmas 'village' set up outside the entrance.



So while we waited, the boys and I played at the entrance which was actually a large rooftop area with gardens and seating, before heading into the shopping complex which featured E's highlight, a dedicated Pokemon store!
It was packed with foreigners frantically grabbing merchandise and filling up carts with stuffed toys and really wasn't that big but the boys happily spent about 45 minutes browsing and exclaiming over the characters.
I then took them over to the Sky Tree lobby and our exploring lead us to an Asahi shop that featured a toy and character section and the boys just loved browsing and exclaiming over everything they saw.
There was plenty to do around the Sky Tree complex if you decide not to take children up to the observation deck or if one of you is going and the other needs to entertain them.
We had planned to take them to the aquarium but we really ran out of time after our browsing.
Note (there is a McDonalds near the Asahi shop if your kids are as fussy as mine).

Once S and our friends came down, we walked over to Asakusa - maybe a 25 minute walk over the bridge. It was a pleasant walk and we passed a great looking playground and park just over the bridge on the Asakusa side that we would have stopped at if C wasn't already asleep in the pram.
We entered at Sensoji Temple and took the boys straight to the incense where its believed you will gain wisdom from wafting the smoke over you - here's hoping.
C was still asleep and the area was teeming with tourists and locals alike (late afternoon) so E went with the big boys up into the Temple while I waited below. He loved the small rituals involved, like the money offering and of course seeing the carved Gods and Buddhas everywhere.
We took a walk around the gardens and shrines and E had fun throwing money in the ponds filled with huge Koi.


We strolled the Nakamise shopping street which was filled with kitschy tourist souvenirs before we found a wonderful tiny little place offering just pan fried gyoza and karage chicken so we sat for awhile feasting on delicious food and drinking beer.


After eating our fill, we headed towards Shin-Nakamise shopping street where our Japanese friend arranged for the boys to enjoy a traditional game played in Summer by local children for a small fee.
It involved using rice paper nets to catch as many goldfish as possible from a small pool with extra points for catching the black fish and put them in your bowl filled with water. The nets broke easily so the idea was to be gentle and delicate and once the game was up, the goldfish were put back in the pond. They played for around 25 minutes and the proprietor was very friendly and helpful (but spoke no English).
The boys absolutely loved this game and still talk about it.

S was desperate to visit Tokyo Dome City so we decided to do that on the way back to Shinjuku despite it being around 5pm and dark.
Not great on a cold wet night, I think this would be fun to take children to during the day with Sega World, amusement park rides and a shopping centre. Easily accessible by metro and with lots of food options and restaurants (Japanese and American).
We didn't go on anything as most of the rides were closed due to the rain but the rollercoaster looked fun.

On Tuesday we were due to set out for three nights at Disneyland - and I was more than a little excited! We had booked 3 nights at the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel so I will dedicate a whole post to this part of the trip.

After 3 nights at Tokyo Disneyland, it was time to leave the happiest place on earth and return to reality. We got back to Shinjuku around 10:30am on the Friday morning and set out to look around Shinjuku and find a burger place to eat at. We were determined to find one we had eaten at in a back street on our last visit and after a lot of walking, spotting Godzilla peering at us over a building (much to Es delight) and a walk through the amazing Takayama department store basement foodhall, we finally found it - JS Burgers. A great pitstop with kids as they loved the fries and there was a salad bar included with some cold pasta salads the boys enjoyed.
After eating our fill, we caught the metro to Ginza with a promise to the boys of visiting a big big toy store. We arrived and strolled up the streets taking in the sights of Tokyo's answer to Fifth Ave and Rodeo Drive. There wasn't much chance for browsing with the boys in tow so we pretty much headed straight to Hakuhinkan Toy Park. If you get stuck, head to the Tourist Information and they will give you a map with it clearly marked.
As one of the biggest toy stores in Tokyo, we adults were a little underwhelmed simply because the entrance seemed to be for a discount store and while there were some greats toys, different toys and fun displays on offer, the 5 floors are small and cramped - although well laid out by genre/age.
The boys however were in heaven and I'm sure we spent at least an hour and a half there browsing and playing.
We headed back to Shinjuku late afternoon so S could take E to play in a Sega World - E loved the skill testers and the games - while I took C back to rest, play and shower ahead of dinner.
Our local friend met us around 6pma nd we set off for dinner at a well-known Yakiniku Japanese BBQ he had booked. JoJoen was a  highlight for us all with the grown-ups loving the food (I stuck to the sirloin type pieces while S was more adventurous with tongue and offal) and the boys loving 'helping' us cook the food at the table. It kept them entertained and occupied the entire time.
The restaurant itself was beautiful, high up on the 9th floor with private tables and typical amazing Japanese service. The boys were each bought their own child friendly bowl, cutlery and bib and were made most welcome for dinner.
We went with ordering individual plates of meat and vegetables off the menu as most of the sets included offal which I refused to have.



It is on the higher end price was but entirely worth it - this is definitely on the list for a family or date meal on any future visits.
We finished up our night in Shinjuku on the skill testers where our friend won (paid through the nose) for a Ted for CB - that traveled home with us and now sleeps in CBs cot and is affectionately known as 'Club Elaine' which is CBs pronunciation of 'Clubber Lang' (as per the Ted movie).

I'll continue with part 2 in another post...

Japan is possibly S and my favourite place in the whole World together. We have both traveled, S far more extensively than I having grown up a British citizen and Air Force brat, but there is something magical and mystical and oh so fun about Japan. We spent our honeymoon there, complete with the biggest earthquake ever felt and we traveled back again 6 months after the EQ to finish said honeymoon that was cut short.

I've dreamed of heading back ever since our last visit but 2 children under 4, a mortgage, renovations, work etc and the timing (and finances) was just never right. Until a few weeks ago when Jetstar had one of their amazing flight sales. I saw the advertisement and ran some dates for fun. When the results returned that the 4 of us could fly to Tokyo return for under $1,600 incl. baggage, I text S and it went a little some thing like 'Ummmm how much do we have to spare right now? Japan for 4 of us $1,566' complete with shocked emoji and a screenshot of my summary.
We went back and forth with dates for a few texts and then he sent the magic words, 'Just do it' ... I may have cried happy tears.

We always said Japan would be a perfect place to holiday with children, even when we were there honeymooning and now we are actually going. We are both so excited at the prospect of making some unforgettable memories with our boys and to be sharing our love of this beautiful country with them.
Of course I now can't think of anything else and have gone into overdrive with my planning ... we also filled E in on the excitement and I'm not sure now if he or I will last the 6 months till we go, especially after we also mentioned the magic word 'Disneyland'. I've had to make a countdown calendar for the poor kid to cross off daily with pictures of airplanes, Disney, Mt Fuji etc on the days of our travel.

I'm having so much fun researching a family holiday and have learnt so much more about Japan that we never even came across on our previous trips. I've already worked out a basic itinerary (that includes 3 days at Disney of course) and have lists a mile long of things to do and places to see. The only painful part is booking accommodation at the moment as you can't book more than 6 months out for most places in Japan so I'm watching the calendar carefully so we can lock in some of the high demand places asap - the main one being Tokyo Disneyland Hotel which is prohibitively expensive but we think a worthy splurge for our convenience and to make our visit truly memorable for the whole family.

My only concern for this trip is the flight with C. I know E will be a dream with the ipad and few activities and books but C on the other hand is a wild one. He hates being restrained, is rarely quiet and has a very short attention span. I won't lie here, I've considered upgrading myself and leaving S up back with the two boys - but that's probably not the best way to start a family holiday. I guess the best I can do is just immerse myself in planning and hope he settles down in the next 6 months like everyone keeps promising me he will.

So, any tips or trips for packing for Tokyo Winter, flying with children, travelling with children and specifically Disney & Tokyo with children? I'll take anything.